Formulation trends at at in-cosmetics Paris 2016

The in-cosmetics' flagship European event hosted the Formulation Lab for the first time year, giving formulation professionals the opportunity to catch up on the very latest developments in the lab and creating a real buzz at the event that Carli effused about.

She also pointed out some of the most exciting and important trends at the event, including highlighting the importance of the fast-evolving anti-pollution trend, as well as manufacturer's moves to sourcing RSPO-certified palm oil ingredients.

Simon:​ Hello, this is Simon Pitman reporting for CosmeticsDesign from In-Cosmetics Paris. I have with me today Belinda Carli, who is the director of The Institute of Personal Care Science. Welcome, Belinda.

Belinda:​ Thank you.

Simon:​ Good to have you here today.

Belinda:​ Thank you.

Simon:​ Now, I understand that here at the In-Cosmetics show, it's not the only hat that you're wearing as the Director of the Institute, so what are you doing here at the show?

Belinda:​ I'm also the official technical advisor for the In-Cosmetics Group, so I make sure that the innovations you see are the latest innovations. They are cutting-edge technology, and that that way exhibitors and people who visit the show are getting to see the latest launches in the industry.

Simon:​ Okay, so I understand you've headed up a big initiative at the show this year and the formulation lab. Can you tell us more about that?

Belinda:​ Sure. The formulation lab is very exciting, sometimes challenging. We have 60 people at the ventures in the lab. It's a great opportunity for chemists to actually play with some of the materials that they see at the show, and again very innovative materials that get used in the lab for advanced formulation.

Simon:​ Well, I actually attended one of your lab sessions yesterday, and it was very enjoyable. First time in a lab, and I really enjoyed it. Thank you for that. Besides that, what are the big trends are you seeing in ingredients at the show this year?

Belinda:​ We're seeing a slight diversion to the popularity of anti-pollution actives. We're actually seeing over here, in the West, that not only do these anti-pollution actives protect against pollution damage, but also they have a very UV-damage focus, so they help to protect against some of the aging effects of UV light-related aging that can happen to the skin.

We're also seeing good actives being launched with cell communication properties. For example, Vantage CytoRegulin, the Juvederm Tydnall, this actually helps to re-densify and firm skin in as little as two weeks. It's a real face-lifting effect. Also, the lipo-tech cell linkage again works a lot on that cell communication, and this is actually a great active for menopausal age women because the cell communication declines with the age process there as well.

Also, we're seeing a big move to palm-free or RSPO Certification. So previously we've seen a lot of companies advertise some of their range as RSPO, whereas now we're seeing major players in the industry move to completely RSPO or palm-free, including Inolex, and of course Clariant's got a new RSPO plant. So it's not just a small portion of the industry that's caring about that now. The big players are now moving, so it's going to become an across-the-board industry trend.

Simon:​ Very interesting. So we'll all be looking out for those trends. Thank you, Belinda Carli, for speaking to us today. Thank you.

Belinda:​ Thank you.

Simon:​ This is Simon Pitman reporting for CosmeticsDesign from In-Cosmetics Paris.