Neuro-cosmetics serum can 'diminish the level of cortisol in skin by 60%', says brand founder

The serum now features over 35 plant and science-based actives that were specially chosen for skin regeneration purposes. These new ingredients are Santalum album​ (Indian Sandalwood) wood extract for regenerating, rejuvenating and firming; Inonotus obliquus​ (Chaga Mushroom) extract for reducing redness, calming and helping to diminish wrinkles; Almond, Borage, Linseed and Olive glycerides for moisturising, anti-inflammatory purposes and helping to diminish erythema; and Dipotassium glycyrrhizate​ (Licorice) for anti-inflammatory benefits, reducing redness and soothing skin.  ​

The cutaneous nervous system, wound healing and cell longevity

The original product launched in January 2021, but LAST continued to research new ingredients with high anti-inflammatory or regenerative potential and then analysed and tested these against the formula.

“We worked on the original formulation for almost two years, going through the research on the cutaneous nervous system, wound healing and cells’ longevity​,” says LAST founder Katarzyna Janocha.

The formulation includes botanical alternatives to retinol, adaptogens, biomimetic tetrapeptides and peptides, cold-pressed oils, glycerides, vitamins and bioferments. “The clinically tested ingredients have been proven to increase collagen synthesis, hyaluronic acid synthesis and ceramide synthase while reducing wrinkles, redness and pigmentation spots, improving skin hydration, smoothness, luminosity, and clarity​,” she says.

LAST uses extract from resins, seeds, leaves, roots, barks, fruits and flowers of different trees, plants and moss from 23 different countries. “We source them pure and raw, from sustainable, local plantations in Africa, Asia, Europe and the Amazon jungle,” ​says Janocha. “Then they are enriched with biomimetic peptides, tetrapeptides, vitamins, ceramides and coenzymes in our laboratory in Poland.”​

Working with so many active ingredients in one product is challenging, especially as the brand refused to use additional chemicals to thicken, emulsify or preserve the formula. “We needed to make sure that the formulation stays stable, that the natural preservative that we use (radish root ferment filtrate with leuconostoc) will be enough to keep the product safe, that active ingredients keep their potency during their 12-18-month lifetime​,” explains Janocha.

To protect the potency of the ingredients in the formulation, the serum has been closed in biophotonic violet glass, which Janocha says blocks 98% of sun rays.

N​euro-actives to diminish skin cortisol levels​

The company’s vision for Skin Repair Serum was to create a neuro-cosmetic product that takes care of skin’s needs but also works on the root cause of ageing.

The brand claims that Skin Repair Serum can decrease the level of the steroid hormone cortisol in skin, therefore potentially lessening the breakdown of collagen and damage to elastin fibers, which is what accelerates skin aging and causes wrinkles to develop.

“This is why the Skin Repair Serum contains neuroactive ingredients that diminish the level of cortisol in skin by 60%, which lowers chronic inflammation and slows down the aging processes​,” explains Janocha.

She also says the serum raises the levels of the neuropeptide beta-endorphin in skin by four times, which she claims can help to accelerate tissue regeneration. “Beta-endorphin​ has been found to have anti-inflammatory effects in the skin, helping to reduce redness and swelling. It has also been shown to stimulate the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes, which can help to speed up the healing of wounds and improve the overall health of the skin,” ​says Janocha.

Now it has updated this formulation, what’s next for LAST?

Janocha reveals that the brand plans to expand into new markets, including France, Italy and Switzerland. Currently, its products are just available online on its website and at selected premium medicine aesthetic clinics in the US.

However, she makes it clear that LAST has no plans for a conveyor belt of NPD. “We don’t create for masses, go on compromises or intend to please anyone,”​ she says. “Above all, we value our customers. Going to the roots of your needs and delivering value, with old-style craftsmanship quality and customer satisfaction.”​